Little England in India: McCluskiegunj’s Timeless Charm

Nestled in the scenic Chotanagpur Plateau, McCluskiegunj, often referred to as “Chota England” or “Little England,” is a hidden gem in the Indian state of Jharkhand. This quaint town, with its rich colonial past and picturesque surroundings, has a unique history that stands out in the annals of Anglo-Indian heritage. Founded in 1933 by Ernest Timothy McCluskie, McCluskiegunj was envisioned as a homeland for the Anglo-Indian community. Nearly a century later, it remains a place of immense charm, reflecting a blend of colonial architecture, serene landscapes, and a slowly emerging local culture.

The Birth of McCluskiegunj

McCluskiegunj’s origins can be traced to the Colonization Society of India, an organization founded by E.T. McCluskie with the mission of creating a homeland for the Anglo-Indian community. The Anglo-Indians, who were the descendants of British settlers and Indian natives, often found themselves in a unique position within colonial India’s social structure. They were neither fully accepted by the British nor fully integrated into Indian society, leading to a sense of displacement among the community.

In response to this, McCluskie and other members of the Society envisioned a settlement that would provide the community with a sense of identity and belonging. They acquired 10,000 acres of land on a perpetual lease from the Ratu Maharaja. This land, located in the Chotanagpur Plateau, was an idyllic spot for establishing the envisioned township, thanks to its elevation of 1,500 to 2,000 feet above sea level and its moderate climate. The settlement comprised several villages, the most prominent being Lapra, Konka, Hesalong, and Mayapur.

McCluskiegunj was marketed to Anglo-Indian families across the subcontinent, and many came to settle here, building homes and creating a self-sustaining community. The early years were filled with promise, as settlers constructed British-style bungalows, established schools, and created an Anglo-Indian cultural enclave in the heart of India.

The Decline of McCluskiegunj

While the idea of McCluskiegunj as an Anglo-Indian homeland was promising, it did not entirely come to fruition. By the 1950s, after India gained independence, many Anglo-Indian families began leaving the settlement in search of better economic opportunities in urban areas or even emigrating to countries like the UK, Australia, and Canada. The town’s once-thriving population started dwindling, and many of the grand colonial bungalows fell into disrepair. For several decades, McCluskiegunj became a shadow of its former self, with the population steadily declining and local infrastructure suffering from neglect.

The departure of Anglo-Indian families left McCluskiegunj as little more than a nondescript village, filled with crumbling remnants of the British era. The lush forests and rolling hills remained, but the town itself was no longer the vibrant hub it once was. Many referred to it as a “ghost town,” and for good reason. As the population declined, basic amenities like healthcare and education became scarce, and the town slipped into obscurity.

A Modern Revival

In the 1990s, however, McCluskiegunj began to experience a modest revival. The turning point came in 1997 with the arrival of the Don Bosco Academy, a prestigious school founded by Alfred Rozario, an Anglo-Indian living in Patna. The school brought with it new opportunities for employment and growth. The dilapidated bungalows were renovated and repurposed as hostels for students, creating a thriving education ecosystem in the town.

Don Bosco Academy has since become a hub for students from far-off districts and even other states, and with the influx of students came a renewed sense of purpose for the town’s residents. The once-abandoned colonial homes were turned into hostels and guesthouses, spurring a cottage industry of hospitality. The Anglo-Indian families who stayed back, as well as new settlers, began to run these hostels, creating a unique blend of the old and the new in McCluskiegunj.

This resurgence has also spurred local tourism. Visitors now come to experience the quiet charm of this colonial town, which still boasts British-era architecture, lush green surroundings, and a palpable sense of history. The Swedish-built Jagriti Vihar is another point of interest, offering a haven for nature enthusiasts. McCluskiegunj has also earned the title of an official tourist destination by the Jharkhand State Government, further solidifying its place on the map of historical and cultural significance.

A Blend of History and Nature

For those who visit McCluskiegunj today, the allure lies in its peaceful ambiance, its untouched natural beauty, and its deep connection to history. The Dugadugi River, which meanders through the area, offers a serene setting for a riverside picnic. The town’s surroundings are dotted with forests, hills, and a variety of flora and fauna, making it an ideal getaway for nature lovers.

The colonial bungalows and churches, though weathered by time, still stand as testament to the town’s Anglo-Indian roots. Visitors can take leisurely walks through the town, exploring these relics of the past, while also immersing themselves in the local culture. Nearby, in Duli Village, one can visit a temple, Gurudwara, and mosque, all built side by side, symbolizing the harmonious coexistence of different faiths in the area.

McCluskiegunj has captured the imagination of both filmmakers and authors, reflecting its mysterious charm and historical depth. It was prominently featured in the critically acclaimed 2016 film A Death in the Gunj, directed by Konkona Sen Sharma.

For those who enjoy outdoor activities, the forests and coal fields around McCluskiegunj offer opportunities for exploration. A short drive from the town takes you to Kothari, a jungle area with hills and streams, perfect for a day of adventure.

Challenges and the Way Forward

Despite its revival, McCluskiegunj is not without its challenges. The town lacks basic infrastructure like a reliable healthcare facility and consistent power supply. The residents have long complained about the lack of attention from the state government, which hinders the town’s full potential as a tourist destination.

Still, McCluskiegunj’s journey from an abandoned Anglo-Indian settlement to a modern, if somewhat rustic, tourist destination is a story of resilience.The town may not be perfect, but for those who live there, McCluskiegunj is more than just a remnant of the past—it’s a place of possibility and hope.

Conclusion

McCluskiegunj is a town where history lingers in every corner. From the grand bungalows to the winding Dugadugi River, the town’s Anglo-Indian heritage is ever-present. Its revival, led by the arrival of the Don Bosco Academy and the enduring spirit of its residents, has brought it back from the brink of obscurity. Today, McCluskiegunj stands as a testament to the resilience of its people and the enduring charm of a town built on dreams of a better future.

For those seeking a quiet, historical retreat in the midst of nature, McCluskiegunj offers an experience unlike any other. Whether you come to explore its colonial past or to immerse yourself in its natural beauty, McCluskiegunj promises a journey through time

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